鉴赏｜荷兰珠宝设计师：用金属演奏珠宝交响曲
编辑：admin 日期：2020-05-23 12:03:11 / 人气：
Born in 1986, Leen grew up in an academically oriented family as the oldest of three siblings, taking responsibility from an early age. His father is a Doctor of Social Science and his mother an artist. Later the family moved to Tilburg, where his mother took a position at the De Pont Museum (one of the world's leading private contemporary art museums) developing educational projects.
Leen Heyne1986年出生于奈梅根，荷兰最古老的城市之一。这个城市位于荷兰和德国的交界处，已存在两千多年，历史可追溯到罗马帝国时期。
他在一个学术家庭长大，并作为长子早早就开始承担家庭责任。他的父亲是一名社会科学博士，他的母亲是一名艺术家。后来全家搬到蒂尔堡，他的母亲在德庞特博物馆（世界顶级的私人艺术博物馆）任职并负责开发教育项目。
Leen Heyne的珠宝首饰作品注：以上作品图片由Ingmar Swalue拍摄
In addition to his mother taking him to art galleries and museums, he was also naturally curious and mechanically inclined. He had busy hands from the beginning. During his childhood, his interests ranged from making model boats to discovering "small treasures," in second-hand markets. Describing the finds as old and old and well-made objects, he collected ornate rings, rare knives, and sturdy hand tools. Although fascinated by nature and history , he was not a serious student. The structure was not easy to accept and he even had to repeat a year. Nevertheless, he found biology and math interesting. After graduating high school in 2002, he decided to strike out on his own.
除了母亲带他去的那些画廊和博物馆外，他还对机械着迷。他从小就心灵手巧，童年时期的主要兴趣有制作小船模型以及在二手市场淘货。他收集华丽的戒指、做工精良的刀具、还有能使用的手工工具。虽然他被自然及历史深深吸引，也未能成为一个严格意义上的好学生。在复读了一年后依然难以接受学校的课程体系，因此2002年高中毕业后他决定自力更生。
《风》
《丝带与泪滴》灰色18K金镶棕色梨形钻
Determined to be independent, he refused help from his parents and even declined scholarships. For the next four years, he lived frugally, trying different things from washing dishes in a restaurant to collecting old bicycles which he repaired and sold for a profit.During the evenings, he partied a lot and enjoyed life like anyone else in their early 20s. He commented that, during those wonder years, he spent much of his free time drawing pictures. Yet he never considered himself artistic nor gave much thought to his "busy hands" or creative energy.
决定独立后，他拒绝了家里的资助并放弃了奖学金。刚开始的四年他过得非常节约，尝试各种不同的工作，包括在饭店洗盘子、回收旧自行车并维修出售。夜晚则是像大部分二十多岁的年轻人一样参加各种派对。那些年他的业余时间几乎都用来画画。但是他并不认为自己有艺术天赋，对灵巧的双手、创造性思维也未多加利用。
《结》
《结》黄色18K金镶古董钻石戒指
Eventually, he found his way to Schoonhoven (2006), enrolling at the local vocational school (Vakschool Schoonhoven). Still undecided and balancing a part-time job, he studied each, goldsmithing and clock repair, one day per week. Fascinated by the Art Deco period, he aimed to recreate pieces from "Gatsby era." After a year he dropped the clock repair studies. During his second year, he apprenticed under the renowned Dutch master-goldsmith Jos van den Elzen. Leen commented that he was a very demanding teacher and he continues to consult him until this day. During that time, Leen started to develop his trademark design and the underlying techniques.
2006年，他前往斯洪霍芬的成人职业学校进修。刚开始为了平衡学习和兼职，他每周花一天时间同时学习金工和钟表维修。被装饰艺术时期的风格吸引，他致力于复原加茨比时代的物件。一年后他放弃钟表维修，并师从荷兰著名的金工艺术家Jos van den Elzen全心学习金工。他说师傅要求非常严格，至今对他仍有启发。从那时起，他开始建立自己的风格及独特的加工技法。
《旋转》
Many of his rings and bangles are crafted from nothing more than a single gold or silver band featuring one or several twists. Leen Heyne hammers, folds, draws out and bends the precious metal for as long as it needs to adopt the desired shape.”The flowing, dynamic progression of these “folds” and the silky matte sheen of the metal remind the beholder of the gentle drape and texture of real silk. What looks so natural, however, is the result of painstaking work and exquisite handcraftsmanship.
他认为自己是一个指挥家而非设计师。他说他从不控制金属，只是帮助金属找到自己的形状。他常用的金属有银、黄金、铂金，最喜欢的是18K黄金。他不用锉刀为作品整形，也不采用任何现代化工具。他的许多戒指和手镯仅通过若干弯曲制作而成。此外，他还通过捶打、褶皱、拉伸等技法来达到造型要求。流线型的褶皱和丝绸般的肌理效果很容易让观察者联想到真正的丝绸。显然将金属做出看起来非常自然的褶皱、弯曲来自于大量艰苦的练习，也正是工匠精神的体现。
《旋转》925银手镯
· 王晓慧，艺术学硕士，云南旅游职业学院宝玉石鉴定与加工专业专职教师，主要讲授课程有《珠宝首饰手绘设计》《工艺编结》《玉文化》《观赏石》等。
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